TOURING PARIS ! THE 12th ARRONDISSEMENT

The twelfth arrondissement is situated on the Rightlong elevated park constructed on an abandoned
Bank of the Seine River in eastern Paris. It is home toNineteenth Century railway viaduct, running from the
one of Paris's largest parks, the Bois de VincennesBastille Opera almost to the Bois de Vincennes. The
which is described below. Its land area is about 6.3Promenade is said to be only elevated park in the
square miles (16.3 square kilometers) counting the park.world. Some portions are enclosed and others are
If you exclude the Bois de Vincennes the land area isopen and provide great views. There are pedestrian
less than 2.5 square miles (about 6.4 squareand cyclist routes and arcades with arts and crafts
kilometers). The population is approximately oneworkshops. The Promenade was featured in the 2004
hundred thirty seven thousand inhabitants, and the areamovie, Before Sunset.
is home to over one hundred twelve thousand jobs,The Cimetiere de Picpus (Picpus Cemetery) is the only
mostly in the Bercy area near the Seine.private cemetery in the city sitting on land seized from
The Place de la Bastille was the site of the infamousa convent during the French Revolution. It is a few
Bastille prison, destroyed in the early days of theminutes from the Place de la Nation, site of a 1794
French Revolution. The square is shared by the fourth,guillotine in 1794 that dispatched up to fifty people a
eleventh, and twelfth arrondissements. Nothing of theday. After Robespierre was beheaded the violence
old prison remains, except the memories. At the centerstopped. Among the cemetery's dead are the Marquis
of the square is the Colonne de Juillet (July Column) ade La Fayette, who died a natural death, his wife, and
154 foot (fifty meter) column commemorating the 1830her sister and mother who died in the terror.
Revolution in which King Charles X was overthrown inThe Palais Omnisports de Paris-Bercy (Paris-Bercy All
favor of his cousin Louis-Phillippe.Sports Palace) is an indoor sports arena hosting a
The Bastille was built in the late Fourteenth Century towide variety of sports including Basketball, Boxing,
help defend Paris and was converted into a prison,Gymnastics, and Show Jumping. It also hosts popular
mostly for political prisoners, in the Seventeenthconcerts with the likes of Britney Spears, Celine Dion,
Century. At the time of its destruction the Bastille wasMadonna, and many, many more. The Palace seats up
composed of eight eighty foot (twenty-four meter)to eighteen thousand spectators.
towers and an armory. By that time the cachotsThe Bois de Vincennes (Vincennes Woods) is an
(dungeons) had been abandoned and the prison wasEnglish-garden type park covering over 3.8 square
not considered the worst in the city. When it wasmiles (a little less than 10 square kilometers). This
stormed on July 14, 1789 the jail contained sevenParisian gem is almost three times as big as New
inmates: four counterfeiters, two madmen, and aYork's Central Park and four times as big as London's
young aristocrat on the outs with his father. During theHyde Park. The Bois de Vincennes was once a royal
storming ninety-eight attackers and one defender died.hunting preserve, and was transformed into a military
Others died afterwards, including the governor. Duringexercise area after the French Revolution. Napoleon III
excavation for the Paris Metro the remains of onemade it a public park in 1860. Be sure to see the
tower surfaced and are on display in a nearby park.Chateau de Vincennes, once a royal castle, and later a
The Bastille square is often used in politicalporcelain factory, a state prison holding the Marquis de
demonstrations, and the area is full of night life, inSade among others, and even an arms factory. The
particular to the northeast.famous spy Mata-Hari was executed here. The
L'Opera de la Bastille (Bastille Opera) is now the homeChateau de Vincennes also served as the military
of the Opera National de Paris. It was supposed toheadquarters of the Chief of General Staff in 1940
replace the old Paris Opera House (Palais Garnier)during the unsuccessful defense of France against the
described in our companion article I Love Touring ParisGerman invasion of 1940. The Bois de Vincennes is
- The Ninth Arrondissement but such was not to bealso boasts a small zoo and four lakes.
the case. Given the city's size and cultural importance itOf course you don't want to be in Paris without
seems that Paris can support two (actually more)sampling fine French wine and food. In my article I
opera houses. Interestingly enough the winner of theLove French Wine and Food - A Midi Syrah I
international competition was an unknown architectreviewed such a wine and suggested a sample menu:
from Uruguay. Every one of the Bastille Opera's nearlyStart with Garbure (Cabbage Soup with Poultry). For
three thousand seats has an unrestricted view of theyour second course savor Cassoulet Toulousain (Bean
stage. On the other hand many say that the acousticsand Pork Stew). And as dessert indulge yourself with
are disappointing at best. The building, replacing a trainViolette de Toulouse (Violet Flower Crystallized in
station, was inaugurated on the two-hundredthSugar). Your Parisian sommelier (wine steward) will be
anniversary of the storming of the Bastille but its firsthappy to suggest appropriate wines to accompany
opera performance was almost a year later.each course.
The Promenade Plantee is a 2.5 mile (4.5 kilometer)