| Introduction | | | | with artists and intellectuals. Severalof the original |
| Trieste is an Adriatic coastal city in northeastern Italy, | | | | cafes are going strong, the Tommeseo andthe Cafee |
| closeto the border with Slovenia. The sea in the Gulf | | | | degli Specchi. |
| of Trieste isvery clear and clean, with limestone cliffs | | | | Triestines are very particular about their coffee. If you |
| and rockybeaches. The centre of the city has a | | | | ordera cappuccino the Trieste version will be a black |
| mid-European feel,more Austrian than Italian, Trieste | | | | coffee witha little milk. You would need to order an |
| was the seaport of the | | | | Italian cappuccino. |
| Hapsburg Empire. | | | | Mixing spirits with coffee is a no-no, viewed as a |
| Unique Points | | | | beveragefavoured by foreign lorry drivers! |
| You can enjoy a combination of a sea/beach holiday | | | | Cultural and Sporting Events |
| and theattractions of a cultural city. | | | | The Barcolana is held on the second Sunday of |
| It is an ideal destination for a short break but you | | | | October. |
| couldeasily spend a week here too. The Verdi Theatre | | | | This is a sailing competition which has run for 30 years |
| hosts anopera season in the winter and an operetta | | | | andhas almost 2000 vessels competing. There are |
| festival insummer. You can swim in the beautiful clear | | | | otherevents during the week such as the Saturday |
| sea, stroll thepromenade, and walk along the cliff paths. | | | | nighttimeregatta. The winner is the boat, which can |
| Take in thewonderful art collection at the Revoltella | | | | achieve thehighest number of laps around the San |
| Museum. You cansip coffee on Piazza Unita Italia with | | | | Guisto basin. The |
| its grand 19th centurybuildings, which face onto the sea. | | | | Music Festival takes place for three evenings at the |
| Getting there | | | | Piazzad'Italie. There is a line up of Italian and |
| Ryanair flies into Trieste from London Standsted. | | | | international talentand it's free. |
| Theairport is 35 kms west of Trieste but there is | | | | From October to May the concert and opera season |
| regular publictransport on Coach 51 into Trieste. | | | | unfoldsin the historic neo-Classical Teatro Comunale |
| Getting around | | | | Giuseppe |
| If you do decide to hire a car, it is worth checking that | | | | Verdi (opened in 1801 and designed by Matteo |
| youcan take it into Slovenia and Croatia if you are | | | | Petch,architect of Milan's La Scala) and the modern |
| consideringday trips there. | | | | Sala |
| Trieste has a good public transport network. | | | | Tripcovich. The festival of Light Opera is held in July |
| There is a "Trieste by Bus" city tour in 13 stops. This | | | | and |
| isavailable on Saturdays and Sundays at 2pm from | | | | August at the Verdi. Figures of international |
| the end of | | | | renowncongregate in Trieste for performances of |
| June to mid October. The two and a half hour trip | | | | such works as |
| allowsyou to see the city's main attractions. The cost | | | | Fritz Kreisler's "Sissi", "The Land of Smiles" and Franz |
| is aroundfive euros per person. | | | | Lear's "Judith". |
| You can take the Opicani tram up to the Carso | | | | Castello Miramare |
| plateau, 348metres above sea level. This funicular | | | | This castle was built for Archduke Maximilian as |
| tramway was built in | | | | aresidence by the sea. Maxilmilian and his wife, |
| 1902. The tram leaves from Piazza Oberdan in the | | | | Charlotte of |
| citycentre up Scorolo hill to the plateau above. | | | | Belgium, came to live here in 1860. However their stay |
| History | | | | onlylasted for 4 years as Maximilian was despatched |
| According to folklore Trieste was founded by | | | | to Mexico,where he been offered the throne in an |
| Tergeste, afriend of Jason and the Argonauts. Ancient | | | | attempt to end the |
| Tergeste as a | | | | Civil War there. Rebel forces killed Maximilian. |
| Roman colony is dated to around 178 BC. It became | | | | Charlottelived at the Castello alone briefly and then |
| moreimportant during the reign of Octavian when | | | | returned to hernative Belgium. You can visit the castle |
| roads wereimproved. | | | | and gardens. |
| The city has had many rulers during its history: Goths, | | | | In July and August the tragic love story is brought to |
| Byzantines, and Lombards. In the 13th century Trieste | | | | life in a |
| wasforced to swear allegiance to Venice. To escape | | | | "Sons et Lumieres". The voice of the Castle |
| Venetiandomination, Trieste sought the protection of | | | | caretakerrecounts the love story of Maximilian and |
| Duke Leopoldof Austria. Trieste was of great | | | | Charlotte. |
| importance to the Hapsburg | | | | Performances in English and German can be |
| Empire as a seaport and was made a Freeport in | | | | requested on |
| 1719. | | | | Saturdays by phoning +39 40 414177 |
| Without customs barriers the port and city flourished. | | | | Castello di Duino |
| At the end of the First World War with collapse of the | | | | This old castle dates from the 11th century, the |
| Hapsburg Empire, Trieste was returned to Italy in 1918. | | | | onlyrecognisable remains are the tower and an arch. |
| Trieste was taken over by the Third Riech when | | | | The newcastle was completed in the 15th century. |
| Italywithdrew from the Second World Ward in | | | | Legend tells that in medieval times a young princess |
| September 1943. | | | | fell inlove with a local boy. Her Father locked her away |
| Two years later there was a 40-day Occupation by | | | | in a towerand had her lover killed in the courtyard |
| Tito's | | | | below and thecorpse thrown in the sea. In despair the |
| Yugoslav forces. After 9 years under an | | | | Princess leaptfrom the tower, her screams turned her |
| Anglo-Americangovernment Trieste was handed over | | | | to stone as shehurtled down. Near the shore is a rock |
| to the Italiangovernment. | | | | that looks like awoman's body. Some say that "Dama |
| Trieste's history may help explain why 70% of | | | | Biance" still hauntsthe area searching for her lost love. |
| Italiansapparently did not know that Trieste was part | | | | Duino Castle has only recently opened its doors to |
| of Italy in arecent opinion poll! | | | | thepublic. Prince Carlo Allessandro and his family still |
| With EU enlargement Trieste is ideally placed as the | | | | live inthe castle. The castle has accommodated many |
| onlynatural port in the centre of Europe. Trieste is one | | | | famousguests: Dante, Listz and Struass. |
| of threefinalists to host the international Expo of | | | | The coastal path, the Rilke Promenade from Duino to |
| Science, | | | | Sistians is named after the German poet, a guest at |
| Technology and Culture in 2008. If its bid is | | | | thecastle from 1911 - 1912. |
| successfulthere will be more investment in the area | | | | The Grotta Gigante, the Giant Cave |
| and Trieste willbecome better known on the world | | | | This cave is the largest accessible cave in the world. It |
| map. | | | | isestimated that you could fit St Peters Cathedral |
| Literary Connections | | | | inside. Thecave was first explored in 1840 by Lidner. In |
| The Irish author James Joyce lived in Trieste during | | | | 1904, a four-year project started to turn the cave into |
| theearly part of the 20th century. When he first arrived | | | | a tourist attraction. Ittook 4000 candles to light the |
| heworked as a tutor at the Berlitz School of English. | | | | cave, electricity was onlyinstalled in 1957. |
| He wenton to write "The Dubliners", "The Portrait of an | | | | There are hourly guided visits. You can find out |
| Artist as a | | | | aboutopening hours by phoning 040 327312. |
| Young Man" and start "Ulysses" in Trieste. The rich mix | | | | Swimming |
| ofcentral European and Eastern Mediterranean culture | | | | The beach at Sistinna Spiaggia is said to be one of the |
| in | | | | bestin Italy. It can be reached by the no. 51 and 21 |
| Trieste is said to have had a great influence on his | | | | buses from |
| writing. | | | | Trieste. Grignano is closer to Trieste and is reached by |
| Joyce was English tutor to Itali Svevo, the Italian | | | | theno. 36 bus. |
| novelist. | | | | Where to eat |
| Svevo was born in Trieste in 1861, his Mother was part | | | | Harry's Grill in the Hotel Gran Duchi is one of Trieste's |
| of a | | | | mostexclusive restaurants. I have eaten at this |
| Triestian Jewish family, and his Father was of | | | | restaurant. I waseven served with a pre-starter, a |
| Germandescent. Joyce encouraged and praised | | | | delicious titbit of stuffedaubergine, and a pre-dessert, a |
| Svevo's work and | | | | lovely strawberry mousse. |
| Svevo wrote critiques of Joyce's work. | | | | The accompanying bread and bread sticks has been |
| Svevo's book, "The Confessions of Zeno", was | | | | freshlybaked. My (proper) starter was stuffed pasta, |
| virtuallyignored in Italy. However Joyce recommended | | | | the maincourse was sea bass, topped off with white |
| the book topublishers in France, where it was hailed as | | | | chocolatemousse rippled with passionfruit sauce. It is |
| a masterpiece. | | | | entirelypossible to have a lighter meal, if you can resist |
| The book is an autobiography of Zeno, written for | | | | thetemptation. In Summer you can sit out on |
| Zeno'spsychoanalyst, to help get to the bottom of his | | | | thepedestrianised square. Main courses cost from 16 - |
| smokingaddiction. | | | | 26euros. Piazza dll"Unita d"Italia 2, tel: 040 660606 |
| Svevo is credited by Welleck as "an Italian novelist | | | | Al Bragozzo is the best-known restaurant at the port, |
| withpermanent appeal as a psychoanalytical | | | | whichspecialises in seafood. The simply yet creatively |
| psychologist andas a portrayer of the inhabitants of | | | | preparedmeals pay homage to the sea and its |
| Austrian and later Italian | | | | heritage by combiningthe elements of Italian cuisine and |
| Trieste and their often uncertain national allegiance." | | | | the riches of the |
| Jan Morris wrote the book, "Trieste and the Meaning | | | | Mediterranean. Specialties include spaghetti alla Giorgio |
| of | | | | (with tomatoes and herbs), ravioli stuffed with |
| Nowhere". Morris claims this is her final book, a | | | | herbs,monkfish braised with artichokes (and cooked |
| self-examination based in Trieste. Morris changed | | | | with whitewine), and spaghetti with lobster. There are |
| gender. | | | | also manypreparations of salmon and shrimp. You can |
| Jan Morris first visited Trieste at the end of the | | | | eat at theoutdoor tables, weather permitting, if you visit |
| Second | | | | in thesummer. Main courses cost from 10 - 25 euros. |
| World War as young Welsh soldier. She describes | | | | Riva |
| how thecity "curiously haunted her" . She revisited the | | | | Nazario Sauro 22. tel: 040 303001. |
| city as anelderly woman. | | | | There are many buffets in Trieste. These are |
| Morris describes Trieste as "natural capital of the | | | | restaurantswhich specialise in pork, often in various |
| nation ofnowhere". By this she means a home for the | | | | stews, sausagesand soups. Two of the best known |
| so-called | | | | are: |
| "Fourth World" . This is a scattered group with the | | | | Re di cappe, Via Geppa 11, tel 040 370330 |
| commonvalues of humour and understanding, usually | | | | Da Giovanni, Via S Lazzaro 14, tel 040 639396 |
| exiles in theirown communities but probably numerous | | | | Day trips |
| enough to formtheir own nation. | | | | Exploring the Carse |
| I laughed at Clay Risen's comment in his piece about | | | | The Triestine cares starts at Montefalcone in the north |
| Trieste in the Square Table in Spring 2003. He | | | | andstretches down adjacent to the Slovenian border. |
| observedthat "Trieste is the only city in Eruope which | | | | The areais known as a paradise for botanists with a |
| appears moreoften in reflective essays than in guide | | | | mixture ofcontinental flora and Mediterranean |
| books of newspapertravel sections." | | | | vegetation. There is talkof the area achieving national |
| Exploring the city | | | | park status. |
| The best way to explore the city is to walk around. | | | | The Carsic house in Rupingrande has a collection |
| The Piazza dell' Unita d'Italia is the heart of the city. | | | | oftraditional furniture and local costumes. |
| Thesquare was created towards the end of the 19th | | | | During the first week in May the works of local |
| century. Ithouses the City Hall, with its clock tower | | | | painters areexhibited during the Majence Festival, in |
| featuring statues of | | | | San Dorligo delle |
| Mikeze and Lakeze, figures from Trieste folklore; | | | | Valle. |
| Government House, with its gilded mosaic | | | | The best known event is the Carsic Wedding, every |
| walldecorations; and the former Head Office of Lloyd | | | | secondyear on the last Sunday of August in |
| Triestino,built in Renaissance style by an Austrian | | | | Monrupino. There aredances every night of the |
| architect. | | | | preceeding week. On the weddingday the bridal |
| The Victory Lighthouse lights the Gulf of Trieste | | | | procession, all dressed in traditionalcostume, walk to |
| andcommemorates the dead of the First World War. It | | | | the fortress church for the marriageceremony. |
| standsalmost 70 metres high with a scaled dome | | | | Grado and Aquiliea |
| containing astatue of winged Victory. At the base of | | | | Aquiliea was founded in the first century BC. It |
| the column is theanchor of the torpedo boat Audace, | | | | occupies astrategic defence location. It became a |
| the first Italian ship toenter the harbour in 1918. The | | | | Patriarchs's seatandmany beautiful churches were built. |
| lighthouse took 4 years tocomplete and was officially | | | | The Bascilica isconsidered to be one of the most |
| opened in 1927. | | | | important monuments ofearly Christianity. There are |
| The Old Stock Exchange is a fine example of | | | | two museums to visit there. |
| neo-classicalarchitecture, resembling a Greek temple. | | | | Grado was the extreme southern part of the port of |
| The Old Stock | | | | Aquileia. |
| Exchange stands by the so called Grand Canal. | | | | Now it a beautiful island city joined to the mainland by |
| Howeverthis is rather an misnomer as the canal is | | | | acauseway. It boasts 20 kms of fine sandy beaches. |
| very short. Thereis a statue of Joyce by one of the | | | | Gradowas very popular as a spa during the days of |
| bridges. | | | | the Austrio |
| The Arco di Riccard is a Roman gate to the city | | | | Hungarian Empire with its healing sands. |
| thought todate from 33 AD. It is in Piazzetta di Ricordo | | | | Grado can be reached by the no 21 bus from Trieste. |
| in the old city. | | | | Thereis also a boat service during the Summer. |
| You can see the Roman amphitheatre at the foot of | | | | Muggia |
| San | | | | Muggia is a pretty coastal town just south of Trieste, |
| Guisto hill. | | | | whichcan be reached by ferry from Trieste during the |
| The Verdi Opera Theatre opened in 1801. It is of a | | | | summer. |
| similarstyle to La Scala in Milan. | | | | The town is of Venetian origin, surrounded by |
| Museums | | | | medievalwalls with a 14th century castle and a pretty |
| There are many museums in Trieste, most of which | | | | port. |
| areclosed on Mondays. | | | | Slovenia |
| Probably the best is The Revoltella Museum, which | | | | The Slovenian border is just a few kilometres from |
| wasfounded in 1872 when Baron Revoletta left his | | | | Trieste. |
| home and artcollection to the city of Trieste. He also | | | | The Lipica Stud and Riding School is under a half hour |
| set up anendowment, which enabled a larger collection | | | | drivefrom Trieste. It was originally founded in 1580 by |
| to beacquired. The Art Gallery has now spread over | | | | Archduke |
| threebuildings in order to house the ever-expanding | | | | Charles for breeding royal horses for the Austrian |
| collection bymany Italian and other artists. | | | | court. |
| Other museums include: | | | | Now you can tour the stud farm (6 Euros) or have a |
| The Regional Centre for the Study of Ancient and | | | | ridinglesson, starting at 16 euros. |
| Modern | | | | Croatia |
| Military History | | | | Croatia can be easily reached through by passing |
| The Civic Museum | | | | throughthe narrow strip of coastal Slovenia. |
| The Museum of Oriental Art | | | | Wine Country |
| Piccolo Pharmacy Museum | | | | Every Sunday during April, May and June you can |
| The Railway Museum | | | | visitspecific wineries in the area to try their products. |
| Café society | | | | There are various wine itineraries you can follow. |
| As Trieste is a port it was one of the first European | | | | Venice |
| cities totake to coffee in a big way. The first coffee | | | | Venice can be reached by direct train from Trieste. |
| houses in Triesteopened at the beginning of the 18th | | | | Thejourney takes around two hours. The train takes |
| century. These cafésbecome very popular | | | | you rightinto the centre of Venice. |