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A visit to the café and bakers. Rozier's Orléans Diary

At the café They are to be found at thevisit to the baker's In my mother's old
far right hand corner; perhaps two or three,village of Milverton in Somerset, England,
perhaps seven or eight. There is Eugene, verythere wasn't a single baker's. In Taunton the
spry, served as a volunteer in the French warcounty town, not too long ago, I tried to buy
in Indochina. He likes women and they seem tosome rye bread. None. The English as a nation
like him. In ten seconds he can get any womanwould appear to have the choice between,
smiling. There is Yves, used to run a draperywhite or brown, sliced or unsliced, thick or
shop, likes women too, but has slowed downthin. And they are the nation that gave to
since his last marriage. Spent three years inthe world the sandwich. I have five baker's
the Algerian war. There is Alain, a physicswithin walking distance of where I live. The
teacher, speaks a little English. Alwaysbest and my favourite is within a hundred
looking for the perfect woman. He likes theyards, as all good bakers should be. The
English. There is André, was with abaker is French, his wife Russian, and there
Tunisien colonial regiment in Indochina,are three women who sell the bread. Two are
likes his Masonic meetings, always at theFrench and one is Moroccain. They are all
theatre. But he has been missing for somesmiling and friendly. It is a real pleasure
weeks. Is he at his apartment in Arcachon?to go to the baker's. The Moroccain is like
But he had to go to the clinique for a minorthe waitress in my café, very pretty,
operation. It is a little worrying whenpolite and speaks excellent French. Not
friends don't show up. There is Michelle, whosurprisingly she is the only one who speaks a
talks little and Nicole who says even less.little English and uses the Internet, so does
Ah! but there is Jacqueline who with herher husband, so I shall be very polite here.
sharp tongue makes up for both of them. SadlyThe other day I had bought a baguette and on
Marguerite who has been part of the furniturethe way home it broke in two. It was very
for as long as I can remember can't make itfresh, still warm, and half fell to the
any more, and there is Daniel, Raymond,ground. I shall talk about French pavements
Jacques etc. I am the only foreigner. Theyanother day. I went back to buy half a
collectively don't have enough English tobaguette but the shop refused to accept
read the first sentence of this article, so Ipayment. They also have I don't know how many
will have to translate it for them. Maybe onedifferent kinds of bread, one dozen, two
or two have a computer, none use e-mail,dozen? All shapes and sizes, all types of
internet or blog. Most are retired, a few arecereals. The only additive allowed is salt.
waiting to retire. None are interested inEnglish bread has about twenty two additives
making any more money. I, though, am stillI believe. I like my baguette a lovely light
very active professionaly and want to make agolden brown on the outside and properly
lot more money. I am truly a foreigner.baked on the inside. I buy it in the morning
However we all get on very well together.to eat for breakfast and lunch and again in
Well, most of the time. Maybe I am somethe evening for dinner. Fresh twice a day. My
strange kind of foreign pet. We have ourfriends in the café are always willing to
favourite waitress. She is pretty and youngtalk about food, which ranks with the weather
and always smiles and makes us feel welcomeand health as main topics of conversation. I
when she shakes our hands. She is alsosaid I couldn't understand my sister-in-law
Moroccain. She is a very good ambassadressat all. She buys half a dozen industrial
for her country. Ah! but what is her country?baguettes at the super market once a week and
Today is the great day. The day when Francethen puts them in the freezer at home. After
collectively stops smoking at the workingall, one of the reasons for living in France
place. My café will still be full of smokeis their bread which must rank above politics
though. The law will not apply to cafésand on a par with women. I am trying to teach
for another year. The psychological shock ofthem British humour. It's not easy in French
taking away this last refuge where smokers,and much gets lost in translation. There is
leaving their office, can seek drink, friendsof course Harry's bread in the supermarket
and tobacco, would have been too great a riskfor American visitors. That makes them smile.
for any government in an election year. A



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